My business is for sale:
I am now out of stock on the master cylinders.
The company that made these for me went out of business and my dies are gone.
Better quality aluminum clutch master cylinders!!
Better quality clutch master cylinders are now available. The aftermarket replacement Fiero clutch master cylinders that are available today have proven to be of questionable quality. It seems like most suppliers only care about their profit margin and always push suppliers for the lowest price. My clutch master cylinders are top quality. Only the best materials and workmanship go into these clutch master cylinders. Available in both the early style and the late style.
There are 2 variations of the Fiero clutch master cylinders. Early and late:
- In the picture above the upper clutch master cylinder is the late style (Some 86, and 87/88)
- The lower clutch master cylinder in the picture above is the early style (84-85 and some 86)
Generally from the factory the 1984-1985 Fiero had the early style clutch master cylinder and the 87/88 Fiero had the late style clutch master cylinder. If you have an 1986 check to see which one you have before you order.
Adjustable banjo is included with each new clutch master cylinder! Allows you to fine tune after installation:
Helpful hint: When a Fiero was new the clutch pedal sat about an inch above the brake pedal. When you receive your master cylinder it is adjusted to the factory length. If your pedal is bent you can loosen the nut and adjust the clutch pedal upwards to try and get to the 1" again. There is a limit to this. If the pedal is so severly bent you may not be able to get it back up to the 1" above the brake pedal again (Hint: the bending usually happenes in the U shaped part of the clutch pedal). Take the clutch pedal out and straighten it or install a new clutch pedal.
How to tell which clutch master cylinder you have? The early type Fiero clutch master cylinder has the steel line that attaches behind the plastic reservoir. The plastic reservoir is towards the front of the car and the steel line attaches behind it (towards the driver). The late type Fiero clutch master cylinder has the plastic reservoir towards the rear of the car and the steel line attaches towards the front of the car. (See pictures above)
Since some may have changed the clutch pedal and/or the clutch master cylinders I offer these clutch master cylinders in 4 variations:
- Early style with the large diameter banjo
- Early style with the small diameter banjo
- Late style with the large diameter banjo
- Late style with the small diameter banjo
Which style of clutch pedal do I have?
The picture below shows the 2 different styles of clutch pedals.
The early style (large diameter pin) is on the left (the pin is 2 different diameters).
The late style (small diameter pin /all one diameter [0.365" / 9.30mm]) is on the right.
NOTE: To insure that you receive the correct clutch master cylinder with the correct banjo check your Fiero before ordering.
Generally all early Fiero's have the large diameter banjo pin unless someone at some point swaped in a later small pin clutch pedal.
An excellent trick to bleed the clutch system:
When I changed from an automatic to a Getrag 5 speed I used the trick Bob Hughes suggested many years ago: Take a clean glass jar (like a mayonnaise jar) with a lid. 1 quart or smaller is OK. Poke 2 holes in the top of the lid. Get some clear tubing from a hardware store. Vinyl clear tubing is cheap. Get 12 feet or so. The ID of this tube should be such that it goes over the bleeder of the slave end snug. Make the holes in the lid of the jar just big enough to allow the tubing to go thru but be a tight fit. Attached one tube maybe 2 feet long to the slave bleeder. Attach the other long tube end to a vacuum port on an engine (I used my truck). Coat the threads of the bleeder screw with some heavy grease or wrap it with Teflon tape so no air gets drawn in past the threads of the bleeder screw. Start the engine you are using for vacuum and let it idle. Make sure you have someone at the front to fill the reservoir and open the bleeder. The vacuum of the running engine will draw the fluid thru the system. Worked excellent for me when I did it.
Included with each master cylinder is a bleeder kit:
Install the white plastic threaded plug into the open port. Install the plastic tubing and use the paper clip to hold it in the reservoir.
Made from top quality cast aluminum!
Feedback from customers:
I received your clutch master today.
After all the trouble and grief I went through trying to get the system bled and functioning properly with the other New Master that I bought from Lordco. Your master was installed bled and working properly within an hour and on the first try.
I just wanted to thank you again for your assistance and for providing the Quality parts. Not that you need it but I will recommend your parts to anyone that asks.
Thanks
Shawn "Shawn & Shannon" <shawn-shannon@ .ca>
Rodney,
I just wanted to let you know that the clutch in my Fiero works right for the first time since I’ve owned it, (17 years). I installed one of your clutch master cylinders with the adjustable banjo rod and the clutch will now fully release. This was the fifth master cylinder, after having installed four slave cylinders, new clutch pedal, new stainless steel line, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing, all new motor and transmission mounts, and blead gallons of brake fluid through the system. It was nice to know that someone makes a quality part that solves a long time problem that nobody else has tried to address. Thanks,
Ken McDowell
On 5/30/20 8:19 PM, Tim Sherry wrote:
Just wanted to say thank you for your fast shipping and the slave and master cylinder are amazing in person. The pictures dont do them justice. I installed them to day and made a huge difference. Thanks again for your products.
