My business is for sale:
I have not found anyone to take over my business. So:
So my plan now is to eventually take my business (mainly just my existing inventory) to Denver. But: I also am not making parts anymore in my shop here. I am also not restocking many items as they run out. You may have noticed some of my parts are out of stock now. That trend will continue. Once in Denver I will continue to sell out my existing stock I have on hand and as I run out of things they become discontinued.
So my advice is buy it now because it may not be available in the future.
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Thank you,
Rodney Dickman
9-10-24: I am still in business and this item is still in stock.
Replacement OEM rubber type suspension bushings for the rear suspension on the 1988 Pontiac Fiero
I have reproduced the rubber suspension bushings for the rear suspension on the 1988 Fiero. These were specifically made to fit the 88 Fiero rear suspension. This required all new tooling etc. These kits include special steel tools machined to the exact size to press these bushings into the rear suspension arms. These tools have to be used correctly or you might ruin the steel lip on the bushings. Included in each kit is two sanding flapper wheels so you can sand the inside of the bores that the bushings press in to before you start to press in the bushings. Also included a tube of anti-seize which is used as a lubricant.
Each kit includes 12 steel housing suspension bushings, special press in tools, sanding wheels and a tube of anti-seize as shown below.
Some have requested that I offer just the large bushings to do the two front to rear (long) trailing arms so that kit includes these pieces:
New suspension bushings installed:
The long arm bushings are pressed in with the lip in this direction.
How to install these suspension bushings: You have to press these bushings in to the suspension arms. You can not hammer them in. Hammering in these bushings will will bend the steel lips and ruin the bushings. A work bench vice might work. I used my arbor press.
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| Remove the rubber bushings from the two large/long arms. I pressed mine out. Most use a torch and heat the steel until the bushings fall out. Do this outside and be careful. Clean and paint the arms if you choose to do so. |
Using the sanding flapper wheel sand the inside of the bores. Once the inside of the bores are clean use the anti-seize and put a thin coat on both the bushing and the inside of the bore of the suspension arm. Note: the bushings press in as shown. The smaller tube is upward. |
Using the large press in tool with the machined inner bore start to press in the bushing. You can only press it in part way on this step. The tool ID was too large for my arbor press so I used a flat piece of steel on top of the tool. Note; The bushings press in as shown. The smaller tube goes upward. |
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| Add the large steel support under the arm making sure it is centered and press the bushing in all the way. It will stick out slightly on the other side. Repeat and do the rest of the large bushings. |
Moving on to the shorter arms. The adjustable toe link: Removing these bushings can be difficult. You should not use a hacksaw as you might cut into the steel arm. |
I used a chisel and distorted the small end of the steel sleeve until I could tap the steel sleeve out. You may have to burn out the rubber first. |
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| The old bushing steel sleeve is now easy to remove. Once you have all the steel sleeves removed clean up and paint the arms if you choose to do that. |
Sand the inside of the bores. The four small bushings with the taller rubber go in the adjustable arms. |
This is how these bushings go in these adjustable toe link arms. The small end of the bushing goes into the smaller end of the arm. |
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| Put a coat of the never-seize on the bushing and the inside of the bore. Use the press in tool that fits this bushing and begin to press the bushing into the suspension arm. Only push it in part way. |
Put the support bushing under the arm and hold the steel U plate as shown. Press the bushing in until the lip of the bushing hits the U plate. This sets the suspension bushing at the correct depth. |
Pull the U plate off the suspension arm. Repeat and do the other three adjustable toe link ends. |
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| Remove the rubber bushings from the non adjustable toe links. Clean up and paint if you choose to do that. Sand the inside of the bores. |
Coat the bushing and the inside of the bore with the never-seize. Use the tool that has yellow paint on it. The bushing will also have a yellow paint mark on it. Start to press in the bushing. |
Put the support tube under the arm, center it and press in the bushing all the way. |
Complete kit: $149.00
Long trailing arm kit: $54.99
Short arms only kit: $95.00
Notes: This took me more than a few years to get this all done. It was a long difficult project with many twists and turns etc. But I stayed with it and I eventually succeeded. This is a well needed part for the 1988 Fiero!
Looking back I see I could have made only one small bushing and used it on both toe links. Hindsight is 20/20 vision. I could have saved a lot of tooling costs had I done that.
Please read all the instructions above and use them to help install these bushings in your suspension arms.
You must use the never-seize. It acts as a lubricant. I tried some without using a lubricant and they would not press in. The steel lip bent downward ruining the bushing. With the never-seize they pressed in firmly but not overly tight. Put the never-seize on both the bushing and the inside of the bore you are pressing the bushing in to.
Looking for new OEM type rubber bushings for the front of your 1988 Fiero? They are still available.
These work:
They will say 84-87 but they also fit the 1988 front swing arms.
Thank you Sir.
Just completed the installation of all the suspension bushings and ball joints and it all went smooth as silk. I even used the U-shaped metal spacer to press out the bushing in the adjustable conttrol arm and without a hitch.
Thank you for putting together a great kit that was well designed.
I have been an engineer for more years than I care to admit and this kit was perfectly designed and simple. Now, that's good engineering.
Thank you again.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Greg Crough
I want to thank you for offering the 1988 total rear suspension bushing kit.
The bushings are high quality, and include instructions with tools.
This has made my project a great experience renewing my rear suspension.
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Dan Roesler
SHIPPING NOTE:
I do not offer free shipping.
Because I use postal flat rate boxes for heavy orders there is no program that can add the proper amount of shipping to every order. So all shipping is added manually by myself after you place your order. That is explained here: Shipping added later explanation
When you place an order the shipping amount will show $0.00. Soon after you place an order you will receive an email confirmation that shows the amount of shipping that was added to your order.
Shipping: $18.50 (USA)
Shipping Note: Shipping cost depends on how much the total order weighs and distance shipped. Once the weight and distances reaches a certain amount I ship these in a USPS Flat Rate box. I can fit many ball joints and tie rods in one flat rate box along with other items.
Final shipping cost is determined by weight of the item(s) and distance from Milwaukee, WI. Shipping prices quoted are for items shipped to the Midwest area in the USA. If you are ordering a single item or multiple items the total shipping price is determined after you place the order. I try to keep my shipping prices to a minimum and use Postal Flat Rate boxes whenever I can utilize them for an order.
