My business is for sale:
5-30-22: OUT OF STOCK :(
The company in Taiwan that made these went out of business. Gone is my tooling for making these. Once I find a buyer for my business I will will work on finding a new manufacturer and hopefully have these made again. This will take several months.
My suggestion is to buy my dual seal piston and put it in an aftermarket slave. It seems all aftermarket slaves are made by one manufacturer no matter who you buy it from.
My second suggestion is to clean everything 100% and use silicone brake fluid so you get no rust. This would involve removing your master cylinder, taking it apart and washing everything. Fill the clutch line with brake cleaner and blow it out several times.
This is my new aluminum Getrag slave cylinder for the 86-88 V-6 5 speed equipped Fieros.
- Cast aluminum housing will not corrode like steel and cast iron.
- Comes complete with a new push rod.
- Rebuildable.
- Top quality!
Since the demise of the original GM steel Getrag slave cylinders the replacement cast iron aftermarket slaves have proven to be very low quality. My aluminum Getrag slave is top quality. It features a double seal on the piston. Includes a new push rod and bleeder valve.
Rebuildable.
The bore size of this cylinder size is: 15/16" (0.9375") or 23.81 mm.
A few ask how long is the push rod? It is 90 mm long.
The piston features a double seal!
Also check out my new one man slave cylinder bleeder tool.
An excellent trick to bleed the clutch system:
When I changed from an automatic to a Getrag 5 speed I used the trick Bob Hughes suggested many years ago: Take a clean glass jar (like a mayonnaise jar) with a lid. 1 quart or smaller is OK. Poke 2 holes in the top of the lid. Get some clear tubing from a hardware store. Vinyl clear tubing is cheap. Get 12 feet or so. The ID of this tube should be such that it goes over the bleeder of the slave end snug. Make the holes in the lid of the jar just big enough to allow the tubing to go thru but be a tight fit. Attached one tube maybe 2 feet long to the slave bleeder. Attach the other long tube end to a vacuum port on an engine (I used my truck). Coat the threads of the bleeder screw with some heavy grease or wrap it with Teflon tape so no air gets drawn in past the threads of the bleeder screw. Start the engine you are using for vacuum and let it idle. Make sure you have someone at the front to fill the reservoir and open the bleeder. The vacuum of the running engine will draw the fluid thru the system. Worked excellent for me when I did it.
Rodney,
I just wanted to let you know that the clutch in my Fiero works right for the first time since I’ve owned it, (17 years). I installed one of your clutch master cylinders with the adjustable banjo rod and the clutch will now fully release. This was the fifth master cylinder, after having installed four slave cylinders, new clutch pedal, new stainless steel line, clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing, all new motor and transmission mounts, and blead gallons of brake fluid through the system. It was nice to know that someone makes a quality part that solves a long time problem that nobody else has tried to address. Thanks,
Ken McDowell
On 5/30/20 8:19 PM, Tim Sherry wrote:
Just wanted to say thank you for your fast shipping and the slave and master cylinder are amazing in person. The pictures dont do them justice. I installed them to day and made a huge difference. Thanks again for your products.
5-30-22: OUT OF STOCK :(
