My business is for sale:
So my plan now is to eventually take my business (mainly just my existing inventory) to Denver. But: I also am not making parts anymore in my shop here. I am also not restocking many items as they run out. You may have noticed some of my parts are out of stock now. That trend will continue. Once in Denver I will continue to sell out my existing stock I have on hand and as I run out of things they become discontinued.
So my advice is buy it now because it may not be available in the future.
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Thank you,
Rodney Dickman
9-10-24: I am still in business and this item is still in stock.
Rebuidable 1988 Fiero front wheel bearing hubs
Sale: I have quite a few of these yet and they are heavy. I would like to sell them instead of taking them to Denver one day when we eventually move there. So I am giving a 20% discount on them.
History:
I originally had a local engineer that had some experience with designing wheel bearing hubs make some preliminary CAD drawings. As this project moved along I contacted Paul Smith and he made some changes to fine tune the design and add some nice features like the thicker flange.
I had the forgings made in China and they are machined, heat and assemblied in Taiwan. They come with top quality Japan NSK bearings/races and a double lip rubber seal.
This is a first prototype. We reduced the length of the threaded shaft and also lowered the height of the hub some to make the overall height less for the production run.You can see this in the pictures farther down.
Interior pictures:
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| Double lip seal |
Slots milled inside to allow removal of the inner races |
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The steel cap is now on the inside of the hub.
These use common tappered wheel bearings. Both inner (bearing and race) and outer races are replacable and a double lip seal that most auto parts stores will have in stock or can get within a day or so.
Seal: Timken 494122 or equivalent
Large inner bearing (behind the seal): Timken 32007 or equivalent
Smaller outer bearing (under the gold cap) Timken 32006 or equivalent
I will also stock replacement Nachi (Japan) high quality bearings and seals and all the misc parts used in these hubs. See this web page for replacement parts.
Not for racing
IMPORTANT NOTE:
I have had a few requests to offer these in different bolt hole patterns. I will have some spindles that are not drilled for the studs. The three holes for the attaching bolts will be drilled. You will need to take them to a machine shop and have them drill and ream them to the lug bolt pattern of your choice and the hole size needed for the lug bolts of your choice. I'm having them leave 50 not drilled for lug bolts.
Sold out of the undrilled hubs.
OEM GM part number for cross reference:
GM OEM part number: 7466939
Interchange numbers:
513040 BR930039 7466939 20-39
I found another area of concern. The steel cap was very hard to pry off. So we changed the end of the housing to have a taper. This allows room to get a screwdriver under the cap to remove the cap:
How to set the castle nut:
This is my way of setting a slotted castle nut on an typical automotive front wheel bearing. There has to be a slight amount of play in them or the grease will get all pushed to the sides and the tapered rollers will overheat and start to fail.
(1) Tighten the castle nut finger tight.
(2) Use a channel locks and tighten the castle nut slightly more. 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
(3) Rotate the hub several times (10 is suggested).
(4) Loosen the castle nut using the channel locks.
(5) Tighten the castle nut finger tight.
(6) Observe the slots in the castle nut compared to the holes in the spindle. You need to back off the castle nut a minimum of one slot. So if a slot lines up perfectly with a hole - back off the castle nut one slot and install the pin. If the castle nut does not line up back it off until it does line up with a hole in the spindle then back the castle nut off one more slot. So your looseness range is one slot to 1.99 slots. An exception to this: If when finger tight the hole in the spindle is around half visible or more you can back it off just one slot.
(7) Install the cotter pin. Push the pin all the way into the slot. The large end of the pin fits perfectly into a slot so it has no chance of rotating.
How to grease a tapered wheel bearing:
https://www.timken.com/pdf/10824_CV14%20Packing%20A%20TRB%20With%20Grease.pdf
This is the grease they used:
http://www.skf.com/binary/53-31182/12053EN_LGMT3.pdf
Torque the three (3) mounting bolts to 62 foot pounds. The 1988 GM service manual has the wrong value.
1988 rebuildable wheel hub: $129.99 each
SHIPPING NOTE:
I do not offer free shipping.
Because I use postal flat rate boxes for heavy orders there is no program that can add the proper amount of shipping to every order. So all shipping is added manually by myself after you place your order. That is explained here: Shipping added later explanation
When you place an order the shipping amount will show $0.00. Soon after you place an order you will receive an email confirmation that shows the amount of shipping that was added to your order.
Shipping: In the USA, if you order a pair, I ship these in a medium flat rate box with a thin piece of plywood in the bottom of the box. Shipping is $24.00 for a pair shipped in the USA.
Price is per hub. If you want two (2) hubs you need to change the quantity to two (2).
